はんなり暮らし⑩～オーダージャケット自分だけの一着～
Hannari Life Vol. 10 ~ Made to order jacket just for myself ~
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こんにちは！今日はクローゼットの中を整理していたら懐かしいものが出てきたので、いつも京都のお話しが中心ですが、今回は少しファッションを中心に昔を思い出しながらブログを書かせていただいています。実は、若かりし頃に少しだけパターンオーダーのお仕事に携わさせていただいておりました。なぜ、テーラーになったかというと、パリで名をはせる新進気鋭のテーラー・鈴木健次郎さんに長期密着する番組を見たのがきっかけでした。彼が仕立てるスーツは「モダン・ダンディー」と称され、一着５０万円から数百万円するにもかかわらず、客からの注文が絶えないのです。日本人テーラーなのに大物弁護士からやっかいな依頼が舞い込んだりファッションにうるさいパリジャンから評価をされている彼の姿を見て、テーラーというお仕事の魅力に引き込まれたのがきっかけです。その当時の気持ちを思い出しながら、一つ一つ思い出のある私の大切なジャケットたちを紹介させていただきますね！！
VITALE BARMERIS CANONICO
イタリア北西部のビエラ地方の中でも名門のメーカー。長い歴史の中で伝統を守りつつ、最新鋭の技術を取り入れる柔軟な発想で高い品質を保ち、有名イタリアメーカーの中でもコストパフォーマンスに優れた生地を提供しているのがカノニコです。このスーツは思い入れのある一着で,スーツ地のブランドやメーカーの名前も正直よく理解できていなかったころ先輩スタッフに、「最初にオーダーとして作るのなら、おススメの生地はどれですか？」と聞いてカノニコを勧められたので初めての一着として作りました。
Hello! Today, when I was arranging the closet, I found something nostalgic, so I always talk about Kyoto, but this time I am going to write about a blog related to fashion while remembering the past. Actually, when I was young, I engaged with a job for custom made a little.The reason why I became a tailor was because I watched a TV program that was closely related to the up-and-coming tailor, Mr. Kenjiro Suzuki, who was famous in Paris.The suits he tailors are called, “modern dandy”, and despite the fact that each suit will cost from 500,000 yen to several million yen, orders from customers are constant.I was fascinated by the work as a tailor because I saw that he received troublesome requests from a big lawyer and was particular about fashion although he was a Japanese tailor.Remembering the feelings of those days, I would like to introduce my precious jackets with each memories.
VITALE BARMERIS CANONICO
It is a prestigious maker in Biella area, the Northwestern Italy.While preserving tradition in the long history, CANONICO offers textiles with excellent cost performance among famous Italian makers, maintaining high quality with a flexible idea that incorporates the latest technology. I was attached to this suit, and when I didn’t really understand the name of the brand or the maker of the suit textiles , I asked my senior staff , “which textile would you recommend if I ordered a made-to-order suit first?”, and I was recommended to wear CANONICO, so I made it as my first suit.
VITALE BARMERIS CANONICO
イタリア北西部のビエラ地方の中でも名門のメーカー。長い歴史の中で伝統を守りつつ、最新鋭の技術を取り入れる柔軟な発想で高い品質を保ち、有名イタリアメーカーの中でもコストパフォーマンスに優れた生地を提供しているのがカノニコです。このスーツは思い入れのある一着で,スーツ地のブランドやメーカーの名前も正直よく理解できていなかったころ先輩スタッフに、「最初にオーダーとして作るのなら、おススメの生地はどれですか？」と聞いてカノニコを勧められたので初めての一着として作りました。
Hello! Today, when I was arranging the closet, I found something nostalgic, so I always talk about Kyoto, but this time I am going to write about a blog related to fashion while remembering the past. Actually, when I was young, I engaged with a job for custom made a little.The reason why I became a tailor was because I watched a TV program that was closely related to the up-and-coming tailor, Mr. Kenjiro Suzuki, who was famous in Paris.The suits he tailors are called, “modern dandy”, and despite the fact that each suit will cost from 500,000 yen to several million yen, orders from customers are constant.I was fascinated by the work as a tailor because I saw that he received troublesome requests from a big lawyer and was particular about fashion although he was a Japanese tailor.Remembering the feelings of those days, I would like to introduce my precious jackets with each memories.
VITALE BARMERIS CANONICO
It is a prestigious maker in Biella area, the Northwestern Italy.While preserving tradition in the long history, CANONICO offers textiles with excellent cost performance among famous Italian makers, maintaining high quality with a flexible idea that incorporates the latest technology. I was attached to this suit, and when I didn’t really understand the name of the brand or the maker of the suit textiles , I asked my senior staff , “which textile would you recommend if I ordered a made-to-order suit first?”, and I was recommended to wear CANONICO, so I made it as my first suit.
FRATELLI TALLIA DI DELFINO
1903年、デルフィノ・タリアとガルディアが共に設立した、「ガルディア・タリア社」を前身とするイタリア・ビエラ地方で、100年以上もの歴史を誇る最高級服地メーカーです。「エルメネジルド･ゼニア｣｢ロロピアーナ｣と並び世界3大ミ毛織物工場と称され、「タリア・ディ・デルィノ」の名で愛されています日本ではエルメネジルド･ゼニアやロロピアーナの方が有名で、タリア･ディ･デルフィノの知名度は一般的には低いですが、アパレル業界や、関係者からは特に評価の高い生地メーカーです。作った当時、ウィンドペン柄が流行で雑誌にも良く取り上げられジャケパンスタイル用にと作った一着です。
某オーダースーツブランド店が展開するWORLD TRAVELER コレクションは本来の天然繊維が持つ機能性に加え、最新のナノ技術によって更に機能性を高めた頑張るビジネスマンを応援するため開発されたファブリックです。その中でもSEVEN SEASは最高級品質としての位置づけで、海外のメーカーと取り組んで開発された高品質のワールドトラベラーですこちらは、残暑がまだある頃に、秋に着る一着として作った物ですちょうど今の季節頃に着たくなる柄ですよね！
FRATELLI TALLIA DI DELFINO
It is the finest clothing maker with a history of over 100 years, which was founded by Delfino Tallia and Guardia Tallia in 1903 and became a predecessor of “Guardia Tallia” in Biella area, Italy.Along with “Ermenegildo Zegna” and “Loro Piana”, it is called the world’s three largest woolen mills factory and is loved by the name of “Talia di Delino”. In Japan, Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana are more famous, and although Talia Di Delfino is not well known in general, the maker is highly evaluated especially by fashion industry and those involved.At the time of making it, the windowpane pattern is popular and is often featured in magazines, and it is the first item made for the jacket and pants style.
The WORLD TRAVELER collection developed by a certain suit brand for custom made is a textile that is highly developed with the latest nanotechnology in addition to the functionality of the original natural fiber to support business people who work harder.Among them, SEVEN SEAS is positioned as the highest quality and is like a world traveler with a high quality developed in collaboration with overseas makers.This is the one I ordered to wear in the autumn when the heat was still hot.It is a pattern you want to wear just around this season!
1903年、デルフィノ・タリアとガルディアが共に設立した、「ガルディア・タリア社」を前身とするイタリア・ビエラ地方で、100年以上もの歴史を誇る最高級服地メーカーです。「エルメネジルド･ゼニア｣｢ロロピアーナ｣と並び世界3大ミ毛織物工場と称され、「タリア・ディ・デルィノ」の名で愛されています日本ではエルメネジルド･ゼニアやロロピアーナの方が有名で、タリア･ディ･デルフィノの知名度は一般的には低いですが、アパレル業界や、関係者からは特に評価の高い生地メーカーです。作った当時、ウィンドペン柄が流行で雑誌にも良く取り上げられジャケパンスタイル用にと作った一着です。
某オーダースーツブランド店が展開するWORLD TRAVELER コレクションは本来の天然繊維が持つ機能性に加え、最新のナノ技術によって更に機能性を高めた頑張るビジネスマンを応援するため開発されたファブリックです。その中でもSEVEN SEASは最高級品質としての位置づけで、海外のメーカーと取り組んで開発された高品質のワールドトラベラーですこちらは、残暑がまだある頃に、秋に着る一着として作った物ですちょうど今の季節頃に着たくなる柄ですよね！
FRATELLI TALLIA DI DELFINO
It is the finest clothing maker with a history of over 100 years, which was founded by Delfino Tallia and Guardia Tallia in 1903 and became a predecessor of “Guardia Tallia” in Biella area, Italy.Along with “Ermenegildo Zegna” and “Loro Piana”, it is called the world’s three largest woolen mills factory and is loved by the name of “Talia di Delino”. In Japan, Ermenegildo Zegna and Loro Piana are more famous, and although Talia Di Delfino is not well known in general, the maker is highly evaluated especially by fashion industry and those involved.At the time of making it, the windowpane pattern is popular and is often featured in magazines, and it is the first item made for the jacket and pants style.
The WORLD TRAVELER collection developed by a certain suit brand for custom made is a textile that is highly developed with the latest nanotechnology in addition to the functionality of the original natural fiber to support business people who work harder.Among them, SEVEN SEAS is positioned as the highest quality and is like a world traveler with a high quality developed in collaboration with overseas makers.This is the one I ordered to wear in the autumn when the heat was still hot.It is a pattern you want to wear just around this season!
Harrisons of Edinburgh
１８６３年に創業した英国の老舗服地商。 世界中の有名テーラーやオーダーサロンでは必ずといってよいほど取り扱いのある生地ブランドです。 服地にたずさわる全てのプロが絶賛するクオリティーの高さが、ハリソンズ オブ エジンバラの 高い技術をうかがわせます。こちらは、今までのイタリア生地とは印象を変えたく、カチッとした印象の英国ブランドで一着を作ってみたいと思ってベルベット生地を選んで作った一着です。
Harrisons of Edinburgh
It was founded in 1863 and a British textiles dealer for clothes that has a long history.It is a textile brand that is almost always dealt with by famous tailors and order salons all over the world.The high quality that all experts involving in clothes textiles praise shows the high technology of Harrisons of Edinburgh.This is the one I ordered by choosing the velvet textile because I wanted to change an impression of the Italian textiles so far, and I wanted to make new impression with a British brand of a sharp images.
１８６３年に創業した英国の老舗服地商。 世界中の有名テーラーやオーダーサロンでは必ずといってよいほど取り扱いのある生地ブランドです。 服地にたずさわる全てのプロが絶賛するクオリティーの高さが、ハリソンズ オブ エジンバラの 高い技術をうかがわせます。こちらは、今までのイタリア生地とは印象を変えたく、カチッとした印象の英国ブランドで一着を作ってみたいと思ってベルベット生地を選んで作った一着です。
Harrisons of Edinburgh
It was founded in 1863 and a British textiles dealer for clothes that has a long history.It is a textile brand that is almost always dealt with by famous tailors and order salons all over the world.The high quality that all experts involving in clothes textiles praise shows the high technology of Harrisons of Edinburgh.This is the one I ordered by choosing the velvet textile because I wanted to change an impression of the Italian textiles so far, and I wanted to make new impression with a British brand of a sharp images.
それぞれに愛着のある、テーラーとして働いていた頃に作ったジャケットたちでした。
These were the jackets that I made when I was working as a tailor and I has been very attached to them.
2022/01/12
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