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Textile making〜ジャガード編〜

Textile Making-Jacquard Edition-

Textile Making-Jacquard Edition-


What is a jacquard?





This time, we would like to introduce about feature of jacquard and the fabric planning.
Jacquard is fabric which pattern is woven, and the feature which have expression of yarn and rough unlike printing. There are two types that yarn dyeing and piece dyeing. Piece dyeing can express color scheme by arranging different dyed yarn with different dyes.
Unlike a dobby loom that weaves regular patterns, jacquard loom can be moved each warp independently, which allows for more free design, but it is more expensive than plain fabric.


Since it is a woven fabric with a high creative freedom of expression, there are various types such as cut jacquard that skips several weft and warp and cuts the skipped yarn, and ventilation jacquard that weaves the fabric into two upper and lower layers.
We told that jacquard is possible to express a free pattern by up and down each warp, but it is the jacquard card that controls each one. The jacquard card is a cardboard of accordion fold with holes, and when the jacquard card has holes, the yarn for freely moving the warp like a puppet rises, so the weft is a mechanism to pass through. Recently, there is also a computer jacquard loom that digitizes the control of warp. This card of jacquard loom is said to be the origin of computers.






When creating jacquard fabric, you have original pattern created from scratch and make a jacquard card, so it will cost you to make a jacquard card. The cost depends on the size and density.
What is important when planning jacquard fabrics is
1, Piece dyeing or yarn dyeing
2, Limitation on the number of colors for warp and weft
3, Pattern repeat size
What should you do with the pattern after confirming these three first? What kind of yarn and texture do you want? What color? I think that it will go smoothly if you think about them.
If there are used clothes and the base fabric that you want to make, there are strengths and weaknesses depending on supplier you request. For example, if the warp is filament, Hokuriku, Kiryu, Yonezawa, and Fujiyoshida are good at it, and if it is span, Nishiwaki and Bishu are the better...
Among the suppliers participating in KIZIARAI, Asashi Keori Kogyo, Ogura Textile, and Miyashin are good at it.
There are case in which costs and production lots may change, so it would be good to refer to the information in the supplier showroom for the characteristics of the supplier.


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