はんなり暮らし③～京都の百貨店は呉服屋さん発祥～
Hannari Life vol.3 ~Department stores in Kyoto originated from a kimono shop~
Hannari Life vol.3 ~Department stores in Kyoto originated from a kimono shop~
京都にある百貨店と言うと、大丸・高島屋を思い浮かぶ方が多いのではないのでしょうか？大丸・高島屋2つとも、元をたどれば京都の呉服屋を発祥しているのをご存じでしたか？
大丸京都店
1717年、伏見に呉服店「大文字屋」として創業し、新撰組が隊服にした「だんだら模様の羽織」を作ったことで有名です。1907年「大丸呉服店」と改称され、1928年大丸の屋号で百貨店となりました。この京都発祥の百貨店を、京都人は今でも愛着を込めて「大丸さん」と呼ばれています。
京都高島屋
1831年烏丸松原で古着・木綿商（屋号「たかしまや」）として創業。
1919年「株式会社 高島屋呉服店」として長堀橋に店を構え、1932年に現在の大阪店を開店。
「高島屋」の名称は、創業者の親が滋賀県高島市出身だったのが由来です。新選組の「誠」旗は高島屋が制作。「ばらのマーク」の包み紙で有名ですね。
Talking about department stores in Kyoto, probably you think of Daimaru and Takashimaya.Did you know that both Daimaru and Takashimaya originated from a kimono shop in Kyoto?
Kyoto Daimaru
In 1717, it was founded in Fushimi as a kimono shop, “Daimonjiya,” and was famous for “Dandara Haori,” which Shinsengumi made as a military uniform.
In 1907, the name was changed to “Daimaru kimono store,” and in 1928 it became a department store under the name of Daimaru.
Kyoto Takashiomaya
In 1831, it was founded in Karasuma Matsubara as vintage clothes and cotton dealers under the name of “Takashimaya”.
In 1919, the store was opened in Nagahoribashi as “Takashimaya Kimono Store Co., Ltd.”, and the current Osaka store was opened in 1932.
The name “Takashimaya” was derived from the fact that the founder’s parents were from Takashima City, Shiga prefecture. The Shinsengumi “Makoto” flag was produced by Takashimaya. Also, Takashimaya is famous for “rose mark” of wrapping papers now.
大丸京都店
1717年、伏見に呉服店「大文字屋」として創業し、新撰組が隊服にした「だんだら模様の羽織」を作ったことで有名です。1907年「大丸呉服店」と改称され、1928年大丸の屋号で百貨店となりました。この京都発祥の百貨店を、京都人は今でも愛着を込めて「大丸さん」と呼ばれています。
京都高島屋
1831年烏丸松原で古着・木綿商（屋号「たかしまや」）として創業。
1919年「株式会社 高島屋呉服店」として長堀橋に店を構え、1932年に現在の大阪店を開店。
「高島屋」の名称は、創業者の親が滋賀県高島市出身だったのが由来です。新選組の「誠」旗は高島屋が制作。「ばらのマーク」の包み紙で有名ですね。
Talking about department stores in Kyoto, probably you think of Daimaru and Takashimaya.Did you know that both Daimaru and Takashimaya originated from a kimono shop in Kyoto?
Kyoto Daimaru
In 1717, it was founded in Fushimi as a kimono shop, “Daimonjiya,” and was famous for “Dandara Haori,” which Shinsengumi made as a military uniform.
In 1907, the name was changed to “Daimaru kimono store,” and in 1928 it became a department store under the name of Daimaru.
Kyoto Takashiomaya
In 1831, it was founded in Karasuma Matsubara as vintage clothes and cotton dealers under the name of “Takashimaya”.
In 1919, the store was opened in Nagahoribashi as “Takashimaya Kimono Store Co., Ltd.”, and the current Osaka store was opened in 1932.
The name “Takashimaya” was derived from the fact that the founder’s parents were from Takashima City, Shiga prefecture. The Shinsengumi “Makoto” flag was produced by Takashimaya. Also, Takashimaya is famous for “rose mark” of wrapping papers now.
今回は新選組の隊服だんだら模様の羽織のお話を少しさせていただきます。150年前、幕末の京都を駆け抜けた新選組。意外にも新選組に関連するものは今の世の中にあまり残っていないのです。新選組といったら浅葱色のだんだら羽織が有名ですね。実は、そのだんだら羽織さえも残っていないのです。
諸説ありますが、元々は京都の呉服屋だった大丸に、新選組が結成された江戸末期、土方歳三が京都の大丸呉服店（現在の大丸京都店）に発注し、誂えたという話があります。
This time I would like to talk about Dandara Haori of the Shinsengumi’s military uniforms.Shinsengumi ran through Kyoto at the end of the Edo era 150 years ago.
Surprisingly, it seems that there aren’t many things related to the Shinsengumi in today’s world.In fact, there is no even the Dandara Haori left.
There were various theories, but there was a story that in the late Edo era when Shinsengumi was formed, Toshizo Hijikata gave an order to Daimaru, which was originally a kimono shop in Kyoto (currently Kyoto Daimaru).
諸説ありますが、元々は京都の呉服屋だった大丸に、新選組が結成された江戸末期、土方歳三が京都の大丸呉服店（現在の大丸京都店）に発注し、誂えたという話があります。
This time I would like to talk about Dandara Haori of the Shinsengumi’s military uniforms.Shinsengumi ran through Kyoto at the end of the Edo era 150 years ago.
Surprisingly, it seems that there aren’t many things related to the Shinsengumi in today’s world.In fact, there is no even the Dandara Haori left.
There were various theories, but there was a story that in the late Edo era when Shinsengumi was formed, Toshizo Hijikata gave an order to Daimaru, which was originally a kimono shop in Kyoto (currently Kyoto Daimaru).
新選組がいた幕末の頃、現代のように自分の好きなブランドの洋服を着てファッションを楽しむ時代とは異なり、当時は庶民の間に職業や身分が明確になると、衣服は次第に「身分を象徴する」役割を担っていくようになりました。色や形状、素材、着こなし方などに組み込まれた様々な「コード（記号・暗号）」の組み合わせによって、「自分はどのような身分の人間か」ということを外部の人間に視覚的に伝達する機能を果たすようにしていたのです。
新選組といえば、浅葱色（あさぎいろ）で、袖とスソに白の山形のだんだら模様の入った羽織の隊服と、誠の文字の隊旗が有名です。
このだんだら模様は、赤穂浪士を描いた“忠臣蔵”の舞台衣装を真似たもので。赤穂浪士は、主君への忠誠を尽くした武士として有名で、隊服に“忠誠”という意味を込めていたようです。
At the end of Edo era when there was the Shinsengumi, unlike the times when people can enjoy wearing clothes of their favorite brands like present times, at that time, the clothes gradually took on a role, “symbolizing their status” after the occupation and social status became clear among the general public.By combining various “codes like symbols” incorporated in colors, shapes, materials and how to dress, the clothes were fulfilling a function to convey “what kind of person you are” to the public people visually.
The Shinsengumi was famous for its Dandara Haori, which was light green and had white mountain-shaped patterns on the sleeves and bottoms and a military flag with the Makoto character. The Dandara patterns imitated a stage costume of “Chushingura” depicting Ako Roshi. Ako Roshi was famous as a samurai who had been loyal to his master, and seemed to have put the meaning of “loyalty” on their uniforms.
新選組といえば、浅葱色（あさぎいろ）で、袖とスソに白の山形のだんだら模様の入った羽織の隊服と、誠の文字の隊旗が有名です。
このだんだら模様は、赤穂浪士を描いた“忠臣蔵”の舞台衣装を真似たもので。赤穂浪士は、主君への忠誠を尽くした武士として有名で、隊服に“忠誠”という意味を込めていたようです。
At the end of Edo era when there was the Shinsengumi, unlike the times when people can enjoy wearing clothes of their favorite brands like present times, at that time, the clothes gradually took on a role, “symbolizing their status” after the occupation and social status became clear among the general public.By combining various “codes like symbols” incorporated in colors, shapes, materials and how to dress, the clothes were fulfilling a function to convey “what kind of person you are” to the public people visually.
The Shinsengumi was famous for its Dandara Haori, which was light green and had white mountain-shaped patterns on the sleeves and bottoms and a military flag with the Makoto character. The Dandara patterns imitated a stage costume of “Chushingura” depicting Ako Roshi. Ako Roshi was famous as a samurai who had been loyal to his master, and seemed to have put the meaning of “loyalty” on their uniforms.
隊服が浅葱色なのは、「切腹」する武士が来ていた裃(かみしも)が浅葱色か白色だったから。つまり、この隊服には死装束としての意味も込められているのです。実は浅葱色は貧乏な田舎侍が着ていた着物裏の色で、田舎侍のことをバカにしてよぶときに“浅葱裏”、また会津藩の身分制度では最下級を表す色でした。
新選組のだんだら羽織を100年以上の時を超え、京都に新たな価値あるものを作り、その歴史を未来に残していきたいという想いから、450年以上の歴史を持つ京友禅の老舗〈千總〉と、江戸時代から続く染色の技を持つ〈染司よしおか〉が多くの方の協力を得て約8カ月かけて製作。
The reason why the military uniforms were light blue is that the kamishimo worn by the samurai who did “hara-kiri” was light blue or white.
In fact, the light blue color, Asagi was the color of the back of the kimono worn by a poor samurai in the countryside, and when people made fun of the poor samurai, they called them the “back of Asagi”. Also, the color expressed the lowest color in the class system of Aizu Domain.
From the desire to create new valuable things in Kyoto after more than 100 years and to leave the history of the Shinsengumi’s Dandara Haori in the future, the Dandara Haori of Shinsengumi was made again after 8 months by the long-established store of Kyoto Yuzen 〈Chiso〉, which has a history of more than 450 years, and 〈Somenotsukasa Yoshioka〉, which has a dyeing technique that has continued since the Edo era, with lots of cooperation they gain.
新選組のだんだら羽織を100年以上の時を超え、京都に新たな価値あるものを作り、その歴史を未来に残していきたいという想いから、450年以上の歴史を持つ京友禅の老舗〈千總〉と、江戸時代から続く染色の技を持つ〈染司よしおか〉が多くの方の協力を得て約8カ月かけて製作。
The reason why the military uniforms were light blue is that the kamishimo worn by the samurai who did “hara-kiri” was light blue or white.
In fact, the light blue color, Asagi was the color of the back of the kimono worn by a poor samurai in the countryside, and when people made fun of the poor samurai, they called them the “back of Asagi”. Also, the color expressed the lowest color in the class system of Aizu Domain.
From the desire to create new valuable things in Kyoto after more than 100 years and to leave the history of the Shinsengumi’s Dandara Haori in the future, the Dandara Haori of Shinsengumi was made again after 8 months by the long-established store of Kyoto Yuzen 〈Chiso〉, which has a history of more than 450 years, and 〈Somenotsukasa Yoshioka〉, which has a dyeing technique that has continued since the Edo era, with lots of cooperation they gain.
江戸時代の素材や技術を用い、天然素材のみで染める「草木染め」で浅葱色に仕上げ「復元新選組だんだら羽織」を製作されたそうです。今、私は三条大橋を眺めながらこの記事を書いています。
この三条大橋は新選組の時代から同じ場所にずっとあるのです。500年前の室町時代から掛かっているこの三条大橋はいくつもの時代を経てファッションとともに時代を歩み歴史を刻んでいるかと思うと感慨深いものがありますね。
Using the materials and techniques of the Edo era, “Restoration Shinsengumi Dandara Haori” seemed to be produced with “Kusaki-zome”, which was dyed only with natural materials in order to make it light blue.
Now, I am just writing down this article while looking at the Sanjyo-Ohashi Bridge.This bridge has been at the same place since the Era of Shinsengumi.This Sanjyo-Ohashi Bridge, which has been built since the Muromachi era 500 years ago, makes me feel deeply moving when I think that the bridge has gone through many times with fashion and been passing a long history.
この三条大橋は新選組の時代から同じ場所にずっとあるのです。500年前の室町時代から掛かっているこの三条大橋はいくつもの時代を経てファッションとともに時代を歩み歴史を刻んでいるかと思うと感慨深いものがありますね。
Using the materials and techniques of the Edo era, “Restoration Shinsengumi Dandara Haori” seemed to be produced with “Kusaki-zome”, which was dyed only with natural materials in order to make it light blue.
Now, I am just writing down this article while looking at the Sanjyo-Ohashi Bridge.This bridge has been at the same place since the Era of Shinsengumi.This Sanjyo-Ohashi Bridge, which has been built since the Muromachi era 500 years ago, makes me feel deeply moving when I think that the bridge has gone through many times with fashion and been passing a long history.
2021/11/08
Hannari_san