はんなり暮らし⑦～伝統工芸～
Hannari Life vol.7 ~Traditional Crafts~
Hannari Life vol.7 ~Traditional Crafts~
先日、以前から気になっていた『京都伝統産業ミュージアム』へ行って参りました！！
京都好きの私にとっては大興奮してしまうミュージアムで京都伝統工芸品にご興味がある方にはお勧めの内容です。今回はミュージアムの展示品の中で、最も魅力を感じた西陣織についてまた少し書かせていただこうかと思います。
The other day, I went to “ Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design” that I have been interested in since some time ago.
This museum makes me so excited because I really love Kyoto, and I highly recommend it if you are interested in traditional crafts of Kyoto. This time, I would like to write a little about most attractive Nishijin-ori among the exhibits in the museum.
京都好きの私にとっては大興奮してしまうミュージアムで京都伝統工芸品にご興味がある方にはお勧めの内容です。今回はミュージアムの展示品の中で、最も魅力を感じた西陣織についてまた少し書かせていただこうかと思います。
The other day, I went to “ Kyoto Museum of Crafts and Design” that I have been interested in since some time ago.
This museum makes me so excited because I really love Kyoto, and I highly recommend it if you are interested in traditional crafts of Kyoto. This time, I would like to write a little about most attractive Nishijin-ori among the exhibits in the museum.
「西陣織で織れないものはない」こう言わしめるほどの絶対的な自信を感じさせる、豪華絢爛な生地からわびさびを感じさせる生地まで・・・
現在、西陣織で主流となっている織種について書かせていただきます。職人さんの爪をノコギリ状にカットして道具のように用いる「爪掻き」という独特の技法が有名であり熟練の職人でも一日に数センチしか織れないこともあるほど。複雑な文様を表現することが出来るのも特徴です。
From gorgeous textiles to wabi-sabi textiles, which make you feel absolute confidence that you can weave anything with Nishijin-ori…
I would like to write about the weaving types that are currently the mainstream in Nishijin-ori.The feature of Tsuzureori is that the patterns are produced just by the weft yarns, so the warp yarns cannot be seen from the surface of textiles.The unique technique of “Tsumegaki”, which cuts a craftsman’s nail into a saw shape and uses it like a tool, is famous, and even a skilled craftsman may weave only a few centimeters a day.Also, it has the feature that it can express complicated patterns.
現在、西陣織で主流となっている織種について書かせていただきます。職人さんの爪をノコギリ状にカットして道具のように用いる「爪掻き」という独特の技法が有名であり熟練の職人でも一日に数センチしか織れないこともあるほど。複雑な文様を表現することが出来るのも特徴です。
From gorgeous textiles to wabi-sabi textiles, which make you feel absolute confidence that you can weave anything with Nishijin-ori…
I would like to write about the weaving types that are currently the mainstream in Nishijin-ori.The feature of Tsuzureori is that the patterns are produced just by the weft yarns, so the warp yarns cannot be seen from the surface of textiles.The unique technique of “Tsumegaki”, which cuts a craftsman’s nail into a saw shape and uses it like a tool, is famous, and even a skilled craftsman may weave only a few centimeters a day.Also, it has the feature that it can express complicated patterns.
①経錦（たてにしき）
色とりどりの様々な糸を使って織られた絹織物は、錦と呼ばれます。経錦とはその名の通り、経糸（たていと）が文様を表現しています。
②緯錦（ぬきにしき）
錦自体の歴史は古く、日本では奈良時代から織られてきたことが分かっています。その中でも緯錦が盛隆を迎えたのは江戸時代からと言われ、何色もの色糸を使用します。大きな文様を表現出来るのが特徴です。
③緞子（どんす）
古くは男性の衣服として重宝されていましたが、元禄前後から女性の衣服にも使用されるものとなりまた密度が高く厚地ですが、柔軟性や光沢感もあるので非常に高級感を感じる織物です。
①Tatenishiki
Silk textiles woven by using various colorful yarns are called Nishiki. As the name suggests, Tatenishiki is a pattern expressed by warp yarns.
②Nukinishiki
Nishiki itself has a long history, and it is known that it has been woven in Japan since Nara era.
Among them, it is said that Nukinishiki reached its prosperity from Edo era, and many colored yarns are used.The feature is that it can express large patterns.
③Donsu
In ancient times, it was useful as men’s clothes, but since around Genroku it has also been used as women’s clothes, and although it is dense and thick, it is the textiles that make you feel very luxurious because it has flexibility and luster.
色とりどりの様々な糸を使って織られた絹織物は、錦と呼ばれます。経錦とはその名の通り、経糸（たていと）が文様を表現しています。
②緯錦（ぬきにしき）
錦自体の歴史は古く、日本では奈良時代から織られてきたことが分かっています。その中でも緯錦が盛隆を迎えたのは江戸時代からと言われ、何色もの色糸を使用します。大きな文様を表現出来るのが特徴です。
③緞子（どんす）
古くは男性の衣服として重宝されていましたが、元禄前後から女性の衣服にも使用されるものとなりまた密度が高く厚地ですが、柔軟性や光沢感もあるので非常に高級感を感じる織物です。
①Tatenishiki
Silk textiles woven by using various colorful yarns are called Nishiki. As the name suggests, Tatenishiki is a pattern expressed by warp yarns.
②Nukinishiki
Nishiki itself has a long history, and it is known that it has been woven in Japan since Nara era.
Among them, it is said that Nukinishiki reached its prosperity from Edo era, and many colored yarns are used.The feature is that it can express large patterns.
③Donsu
In ancient times, it was useful as men’s clothes, but since around Genroku it has also been used as women’s clothes, and although it is dense and thick, it is the textiles that make you feel very luxurious because it has flexibility and luster.
④朱珍（しゅちん）
朱珍が日本で作られるようになったのは、室町時代からです。先ほどの緞子と同じ繻子（しゅす）織ですが、朱珍は地上げ紋がないのが特徴です。艶のある地に色とりどりの文様、金銀箔を用いる技法など、豪華さと華やかさが印象的な織物です。室町時代以降も帯の織りの品種として人気を博しました。
⑤紹巴（しょうは）
強く撚った糸を経糸、緯糸共に使用し織っていきます。細かい地紋があるのが特徴です。厚みがないので昔は羽織裏としての利用が多かったようです。
④Shuchin
Shuchin had been made in Japan since Muromachi era.It is the same Shusu-ori as the previous Donsu, but the feature is that it does not have Jiagemon, which is a kind of crests.It is the textile with impressions of luxury and gorgeousness such as colorful patterns on the glossy surface and techniques using gold and silver foil.Even after Muromachi era, it became popular as a kind of textiles for kimono-obi.
⑤Shouha
It is woven by using strongly twisted yarns with both warp and weft yarns. The feature is that it has minute woven patterns.Since it was not thick, it seems that it was often used as haori-ura, which is the back of a short coat for formal kimono, in the past.
朱珍が日本で作られるようになったのは、室町時代からです。先ほどの緞子と同じ繻子（しゅす）織ですが、朱珍は地上げ紋がないのが特徴です。艶のある地に色とりどりの文様、金銀箔を用いる技法など、豪華さと華やかさが印象的な織物です。室町時代以降も帯の織りの品種として人気を博しました。
⑤紹巴（しょうは）
強く撚った糸を経糸、緯糸共に使用し織っていきます。細かい地紋があるのが特徴です。厚みがないので昔は羽織裏としての利用が多かったようです。
④Shuchin
Shuchin had been made in Japan since Muromachi era.It is the same Shusu-ori as the previous Donsu, but the feature is that it does not have Jiagemon, which is a kind of crests.It is the textile with impressions of luxury and gorgeousness such as colorful patterns on the glossy surface and techniques using gold and silver foil.Even after Muromachi era, it became popular as a kind of textiles for kimono-obi.
⑤Shouha
It is woven by using strongly twisted yarns with both warp and weft yarns. The feature is that it has minute woven patterns.Since it was not thick, it seems that it was often used as haori-ura, which is the back of a short coat for formal kimono, in the past.
2021/11/29
Hannari_san