You may have heard about “Kyo Yuzen” before. Kyo Yuzen is a kimono made in Kyoto by using a dyeing technique called Yuzen dyeing. Yuzen is a typical technique for adding patterns to dyed kimono.
Do you know there are the three major Yuzen in Japan?
“Kyo Yuzen” “Kaga Yuzen” , and “Tokyo Yuzen” are known as the three major Yuzen in Japan. Kaga yuzen is Yuzen dyeing that is dyed in Kanazawa City, Ishikawa Prefecture, and is characterized by being drawn mainly pictorial and realistic “flower patterns”. It is also characterized by the fact that it is not decorated or embroidered with gold and silver leaf, and no techniques except dyeing are used. Tokyo Yuzen, also known as Edo Yuzen, is a Yuzen dyeing that was born in Edo. The culture of the townspeople in Edo era is strongly reflected, and it can be said that it is characterized by its astringent and calm colors. A stylish and urban feel in a calm atmosphere is unique to Tokyo Yuzen. And Kyo Yuzen was born in Kyoto during the Genroku era. It is the oldest of the three major Yuzen. Also, embroidery and gold and silver leaf are actively applied, and it is the most gorgeous design of the three major Yuzen.
There are many facilities exhibiting traditional crafts in Kyoto, and this time I went to a facility in Karasuma Sanjo called the Kyoto Traditional Crafts Museum. On the day I visited, there was a demonstration of hand-painted Yuzen, and I could talk to Etsuko Shirogai who was there, so I would like to write a little about that time.
When I asked Mrs. Shirogai’s personal history … after spending her childhood at Tango Chirimen’s Orimoto, she went on to become an office lady and a housewife while making her favorite handmade hobby. I was surprised that she entered Traditional Arts Super College of Kyoto after her child-rearing had settled down, and graduated from the Kyoto Hand-Painted Yuzen course and became a craftman !!Currently, to expand the goodness of silk, she is producing and teaching Tsumamizaiku and Yuzen works that are particular about pure silk.
A major feature of hand-painted Yuzen is that each pattern is colored with a brush or a writing brush. And this is all done by hand. Hand-painted Yuzen draws a rough sketch on a stretched textile and draws the outline of the pattern on the sketch by using Itomenori. This is the most distinctive feature of Yuzen dyeing and is called “Itomeoki”.
Since there are many processes, I wondered if it would take more time to complete the work, but the peacock in the above photo was finished in 1 to 2 days after focusing on the work from design to dyeing. As expected, I thought that it was a craftsman’s soul. Recently, it is said that hand-printed Yuzen is applied not only to kimono but also interiors and clothes. I was introduced to the works exhibited at the Kyoto Traditional Crafts Hall. There was an eye-catching hand-printed Yuzen wedding dress on display.
この作品は、京友禅をもっとたくさんの人に知ってもらいたいという思いから作られたそうです。京友禅に触れて
西陣織と同様に京友禅にもまた奥が深く。私の心を躍らせる物となりました。It seems that this work was made from the desire to let more people know about Kyo Yuzen. Knowing about Kyo Yuzen like Nishijin-ori, Kyo Yuzen was also deep. It was an exciting thing for me.