Tartan, also known as plaid, refers to a striped pattern woven into the warp and weft of the fabric. In Japan, it is commonly referred to as Tartan Check. Originally made from wool, it is now crafted from various materials, and its beautiful pattern, along with its association with traditional Scottish attire, has gained worldwide recognition. In this article, we will delve into the history and evolution of Tartan Check.
The origin of Tartan dates back to ancient times, with the oldest known Tartan in Scotland believed to date back to the 3rd or 4th century AD. The oldest surviving Tartan fabric, approximately 3,000 years old, was discovered near the present-day Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region in China and southeastern Kazakhstan, though its cultural significance became particularly pronounced in Scotland.
Tartan became famous for how Scottish Highland clans would create different patterned fabrics to represent individual clans, making it a symbol widely used to signify regions and clans and an essential element in displaying family heritage and lineage. However, it's worth noting that originally, specific patterns and colors might have been more prevalent in certain areas, but there was no formal "Clan Tartan" system.
18世紀初頭には、スコットランドがイングランドと統合されたことにより、ジャコバイト蜂起(反乱)が起こりました。これは、スコットランドの独立とステュアート家の王位復帰を目指す運動であり、タータンチェックはこの運動の象徴的なアイテムとして使われました。ジャコバイト蜂起の指導者であるチャールズ・エドワード・ステュアートもタータンチェックを愛用していました。英国王室の美術コレクションにある、画家デヴィッド・モリエ(1705~1770年頃)の「An Incident in the Rebellion of 1745」には、タータンチェックの布を纏った兵士たちが戦う様子が描かれています。
18世紀末から19世紀初頭にかけて、イングランドの中央政府がスコットランドのタータンチェックの使用を禁止する「タータンチェック禁止法」を制定しました。この法律により、タータンチェックの着用や製造、販売が違法とされ、スコットランドの伝統的な衣装は一時的に廃れていくことになりました。
In the early 18th century, Scotland's integration with England led to the Jacobite uprising, a movement aiming for Scottish independence and the restoration of the Stuart dynasty. Tartan Check became an emblematic item during this uprising. Charles Edward Stuart, the leader of the Jacobite rebellion, was also a fan of Tartan Check. Painter David Morier (c. 1705–1770) depicted soldiers clad in Tartan Check fabric, engaged in battle, in his artwork "An Incident in the Rebellion of 1745," now part of the British Royal Collection.
From the late 18th to the early 19th century, the English central government enacted the "Tartan Check Prohibition Act," banning the use, production, and sale of Tartan Check in Scotland. This law led to a temporary decline of Scotland's traditional attire.
In the early 19th century, Romantic literature flourished, and Scotland (Highland) once again garnered attention. Walter Scott, a writer and historian, wrote works praising Scotland's history and traditions, reigniting interest in Tartan Check. Scott's works achieved significant success, sparking a romantic fascination with Scotland. As a result, the use of Tartan Check was once again permitted, marking the beginning of a new era.
From the late 19th to the early 20th century, Scottish Tartan Check gained popularity in the fashion industry. Renowned fashion designers and brands unveiled collections incorporating Tartan Check, leading to its widespread adoration worldwide. Moreover, Tartan Check made its way to Japan during the Meiji era, and it became particularly prominent after the war.
The history of Scottish Tartan spanning the 19th century is long and intricate, reflecting the diverse emotions and passions of various individuals. Even in modern times, Tartan Check continues to be cherished and loved.
<参考>
・THE SCOTTISH TARTANS MUSEUM https://www.scottishtartansmuseum.org/
・Tartan (Wikipedia) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tartan
・An Incident in the Rebellion of 1745 (Wikipedia) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/An_Incident_in_the_Rebellion_of_1745
・タータン (Wikipedia) https://ja.wikipedia.org/wiki/%E3%82%BF%E3%83%BC%E3%82%BF%E3%83%B3