Kasuri is a weaving technique in which pre-dyed threads called Kasuri-ito are used in both the warp and weft to create patterns in the fabric. Its intricate and beautiful designs have been beloved by many throughout history. In DAZAI Osamui's essay "服装に就いて" he writes about his fondness for the kasuri fabric he frequently wore. In this blog, let's explore the process of making Kasuri and its historical significance.
There are several methods for dyeing threads to create kasuri patterns. One of the simplest and most widely used techniques is called “Kukuri”.
(1) "Kukuri": In this technique, the parts that should not be dyed are tightly bound with vinyl strings, and the threads are then dyed in a large pot or similar container. Afterward, the bound sections are untied, and patterns are created using the contrast between the original white and the dyed colors. Depending on the design, the binding process may be repeated multiple times, allowing for the creation of intricate patterns.
(2) "Itajime": Itajime is a technique where two boards with carved grooves are used to sandwich the thread, which is then tightly bound and dyed. The dye permeates into the grooves, leaving the areas pressed by the boards undyed and resulting in the formation of kasuri threads.
(3) "Orizome": To create kasuri threads using this technique, a special machine called a “shimemaki" is used. Cotton threads are used as the warp, and bundles of threads that will become kasuri are placed as the weft. Depending on the design, the warp is used to tightly bind the areas that need to resist dyeing. Once these steps are completed, the dyeing process is carried out, and the parts where the warp and weft intersect remain undyed, becoming the kasuri threads. Bunjin kasuri, commonly used for men's kimonos, is woven using this method.
(4) "Nassen": In this technique, threads are strategically positioned or temporarily woven to envision the final pattern. Then, a print-like method using silk screens, rollers, or woodblocks is employed to dye the motifs onto the fabric. This method is similar to the one used for "kaishibori" in Japanese meisen textiles. Meisen textiles have their origins in the late Edo period but experienced significant growth during the Meiji and Taisho eras. Prominent production areas like Isezaki Meisen and Chichibu Meisen are well-known mainly in the North Kanto and Kanto regions.
(5) "Surikomi": In this method, specific areas are colored without using the aforementioned resist-dyeing techniques. Instead, brushes or spatulas are used to directly apply dye to the fabric.
When using these dyed threads as warp, it is called “Tategasuri", while as weft, it is called “Yokogasuri". When both warp and weft are used, it is referred to as “Tateyoko Gasuri" or “Hongasuri". Tate Gasuri, being relatively easy to create patterns, has been widely used worldwide and seems to have been produced from an early period. On the other hand, Yoko Gasuri requires a more advanced technique, and Tateyoko Gasuri is considered one of the most challenging methods, with production taking place mainly in certain regions of India, Bali in Indonesia, and Japan.
Kasuri is a widely adopted dyeing and weaving technique across the globe. In the next part, let's shine a spotlight on the history of kasuri in Japan and around the world and explore its distribution in various regions.