絣の作り方と、世界と日本の歴史（2）
The Making and History of Kasuri, Part 2
织锦的制作方法及世界与日本的历史（二）
世界各地には絣が存在し、地域ごとに個性的な特徴を持っていますが、本記事では主に日本と他の国々の絣の歴史と分布について探ってみたいと思います。絣の歴史は古く、またその染織技術は広範囲にわたっています。絣の柄や色彩がその土地の文化や風土を反映しており、民族衣装や日常生活に欠かせない重要な役割を果たしてきました。
絣の由来は、「かすれ」が文様の境界に現れることに起因しています。中国南朝の梁の歴史を記した書物である「梁書」（502年-557年）には「斑絲布(まだらいと布)」、また日本の「日本書紀」には「霞錦(かすみにしき)」と記載されています。フランスでは「シネ (chiné)」、イギリスでは曇りを表す「クラウド (cloud)」と呼ばれており、いずれもかすれた模様のことを表しています。絣は、織る前の糸の染め斑から偶発的に生まれたとされ、世界各地で自然発生する可能性がありますが、現代の絣の起源はインドから始まり、内陸ルートや海洋ルートを通じて広まったと考えられています。遺物や歴史書の記述から、5世紀には中国、6〜7世紀にはインドネシア、7世紀には日本、10世紀には北アフリカに伝わったことが明らかになっています。
Kasuri exists in various parts of the world, each region having its unique characteristics. In this article, we mainly explore the history and distribution of Kasuri in Japan and other countries. Its history is ancient, and the dyeing and weaving techniques have spread widely. The patterns and colors of Kasuri reflect the local culture and climate, playing a crucial role in traditional clothing and daily life.
The origin of Kasuri is attributed to the appearance of "kasure" or blurred patterns at the boundary of designs. In China's Southern Dynasties, a historical book called "Liang Shu" (502 AD - 557 AD) referred to it as "斑絲布 (madaraito布)," while Japan's "Nihon Shoki" mentioned it as "霞錦 (kasumi nishiki)." In France, it is called "chiné," meaning mottled, and in England, it is known as cloud), representing cloudy patterns. Kasuri is believed to have spontaneously emerged from accidentally dyed threads before weaving and might have occurred naturally in various places. However, its modern origin is traced back to India, from where it spread through inland and maritime routes. Evidence from artifacts and historical records reveals that Kasuri reached China in the 5th century, Indonesia in the 6th to 7th century, Japan in the 7th century, and North Africa in the 10th century.
絣の由来は、「かすれ」が文様の境界に現れることに起因しています。中国南朝の梁の歴史を記した書物である「梁書」（502年-557年）には「斑絲布(まだらいと布)」、また日本の「日本書紀」には「霞錦(かすみにしき)」と記載されています。フランスでは「シネ (chiné)」、イギリスでは曇りを表す「クラウド (cloud)」と呼ばれており、いずれもかすれた模様のことを表しています。絣は、織る前の糸の染め斑から偶発的に生まれたとされ、世界各地で自然発生する可能性がありますが、現代の絣の起源はインドから始まり、内陸ルートや海洋ルートを通じて広まったと考えられています。遺物や歴史書の記述から、5世紀には中国、6〜7世紀にはインドネシア、7世紀には日本、10世紀には北アフリカに伝わったことが明らかになっています。
Kasuri exists in various parts of the world, each region having its unique characteristics. In this article, we mainly explore the history and distribution of Kasuri in Japan and other countries. Its history is ancient, and the dyeing and weaving techniques have spread widely. The patterns and colors of Kasuri reflect the local culture and climate, playing a crucial role in traditional clothing and daily life.
The origin of Kasuri is attributed to the appearance of "kasure" or blurred patterns at the boundary of designs. In China's Southern Dynasties, a historical book called "Liang Shu" (502 AD - 557 AD) referred to it as "斑絲布 (madaraito布)," while Japan's "Nihon Shoki" mentioned it as "霞錦 (kasumi nishiki)." In France, it is called "chiné," meaning mottled, and in England, it is known as cloud), representing cloudy patterns. Kasuri is believed to have spontaneously emerged from accidentally dyed threads before weaving and might have occurred naturally in various places. However, its modern origin is traced back to India, from where it spread through inland and maritime routes. Evidence from artifacts and historical records reveals that Kasuri reached China in the 5th century, Indonesia in the 6th to 7th century, Japan in the 7th century, and North Africa in the 10th century.
経絣は、インド、東南アジア、日本、中央アジア、中近東、ヨーロッパ、中南米などの幅広い範囲で見ることができます。インドネシア東部のヌサ・トゥンガラ諸島からマルク諸島、そしてボルネオ島（インドネシア・カリマンタン、マレーシア・サワラク）にかけては、木綿を経糸組織で織った経絣が広く見られ、経絣の宝庫として知られています。一方緯絣は、インド、東南アジア大陸部、インドネシア西部、日本、 中米 (グアテマラ)などに広く分布しています。経緯絣は非常に手間のかかる織物のため、その分布は限定されており、インドや、インドネシアのバリ島、そして日本のみで行われてきたとされています。江戸時代後期までの日本、そして琉球の絣は、この経緯絣が基本として様々な模様が作られていきました。
Kasuri, also known as Ikat, can be found across a broad range of regions, including India, Southeast Asia, Japan, Central Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and Central and South America. In the eastern part of Indonesia, from the Nusa Tenggara Islands to the Moluccas, and even on Borneo Island (Kalimantan in Indonesia and Sarawak in Malaysia), warp Kasuri woven from cotton is widely seen, making these areas known as treasure troves of warp Kasuri. On the other hand, weft Kasuri is extensively distributed in India, mainland Southeast Asia, western Indonesia, Japan, and Central America (Guatemala). Due to the labor-intensive process involved in weaving weft Kasuri, its distribution is more limited, and it has been predominantly practiced in India, Bali in Indonesia, and Japan. Until the late Edo period in Japan and in the Ryukyu Kingdom, weft Kasuri served as the foundation for creating various patterns.
Kasuri, also known as Ikat, can be found across a broad range of regions, including India, Southeast Asia, Japan, Central Asia, the Middle East, Europe, and Central and South America. In the eastern part of Indonesia, from the Nusa Tenggara Islands to the Moluccas, and even on Borneo Island (Kalimantan in Indonesia and Sarawak in Malaysia), warp Kasuri woven from cotton is widely seen, making these areas known as treasure troves of warp Kasuri. On the other hand, weft Kasuri is extensively distributed in India, mainland Southeast Asia, western Indonesia, Japan, and Central America (Guatemala). Due to the labor-intensive process involved in weaving weft Kasuri, its distribution is more limited, and it has been predominantly practiced in India, Bali in Indonesia, and Japan. Until the late Edo period in Japan and in the Ryukyu Kingdom, weft Kasuri served as the foundation for creating various patterns.
日本の絣の古い現存資料は、飛鳥・奈良時代までさかのぼり、法隆寺や正倉院に残されています。これらは中国からの船載品と考えられています。絣が日本で作られるようになったのは室町時代からであり、この当時に作られていたのは締切絣（しめきりがすり）と呼ばれ、武家の熨斗目小袖や能装束の唐織や厚板に使われていました。
本格的に絣が発展していったのは江戸時代中期以降だとされています。江戸時代初期に琉球からもたらされた絣は、本土の染織に大きな影響を及ぼし、後期には越後、久留米、伊予、備後、山陰の広瀬、弓浜、倉吉などで絣が作られるようになっていきました。慶長14年に薩摩が琉球へ侵略したことがきっかけで、以降琉球への薩摩の支配が強まっていったため、琉球絣が薩摩を経て薩摩絣となり、日本各地に広がっていくこととなります。琉球の絣は非常に繊細で緻密に作られており、現在でも美しい琉球絣が作られ続けています。絣が庶民に届いたのは、江戸時代中期から後期と言われています。幕末以降は、各地で大変手の込んだ絵絣が盛んに織られていくようになり、その後、明治時代から昭和初期にかけて絣が広く普及し、多くの地域で絣の生産が行われました。
Ancient existing materials of Japanese Kasuri date back to the Asuka and Nara periods and can be found in Horyuji Temple and Shoso-in Repository. These are believed to have been brought on ships from China. The production of Kasuri in Japan began during the Muromachi period, where it was referred to as "締切絣 (shimekiri gasuri)." During this time, it was used for samurai's formal ceremonial kimono, Noh costumes, and thick boards.
The true development of Kasuri took place during the mid-Edo period. Kasuri introduced from Ryukyu during the early Edo period significantly influenced dyeing and weaving on the mainland, and by the late Edo period, regions such as Echigo, Kurume, Iyo, Bingo, and the Sanyo region (Hirose, Yumihama, Kurayoshi, etc.) began producing Kasuri. The invasion of Ryukyu by Satsuma in the 14th year of Keicho played a significant role, as Ryukyu Kasuri, passing through Satsuma, spread throughout Japan and became known as Satsuma Kasuri. Ryukyu's Kasuri is highly delicate and intricately crafted, and even today, beautiful Ryukyu Kasuri continues to be made. Kasuri reached common people during the mid to late Edo period. From the late Edo period to the early Meiji period, intricately woven pictorial Kasuri flourished in various regions, and subsequently, from the Meiji period to the early Showa period, Kasuri became widely popular, with many regions producing Kasuri.
本格的に絣が発展していったのは江戸時代中期以降だとされています。江戸時代初期に琉球からもたらされた絣は、本土の染織に大きな影響を及ぼし、後期には越後、久留米、伊予、備後、山陰の広瀬、弓浜、倉吉などで絣が作られるようになっていきました。慶長14年に薩摩が琉球へ侵略したことがきっかけで、以降琉球への薩摩の支配が強まっていったため、琉球絣が薩摩を経て薩摩絣となり、日本各地に広がっていくこととなります。琉球の絣は非常に繊細で緻密に作られており、現在でも美しい琉球絣が作られ続けています。絣が庶民に届いたのは、江戸時代中期から後期と言われています。幕末以降は、各地で大変手の込んだ絵絣が盛んに織られていくようになり、その後、明治時代から昭和初期にかけて絣が広く普及し、多くの地域で絣の生産が行われました。
Ancient existing materials of Japanese Kasuri date back to the Asuka and Nara periods and can be found in Horyuji Temple and Shoso-in Repository. These are believed to have been brought on ships from China. The production of Kasuri in Japan began during the Muromachi period, where it was referred to as "締切絣 (shimekiri gasuri)." During this time, it was used for samurai's formal ceremonial kimono, Noh costumes, and thick boards.
The true development of Kasuri took place during the mid-Edo period. Kasuri introduced from Ryukyu during the early Edo period significantly influenced dyeing and weaving on the mainland, and by the late Edo period, regions such as Echigo, Kurume, Iyo, Bingo, and the Sanyo region (Hirose, Yumihama, Kurayoshi, etc.) began producing Kasuri. The invasion of Ryukyu by Satsuma in the 14th year of Keicho played a significant role, as Ryukyu Kasuri, passing through Satsuma, spread throughout Japan and became known as Satsuma Kasuri. Ryukyu's Kasuri is highly delicate and intricately crafted, and even today, beautiful Ryukyu Kasuri continues to be made. Kasuri reached common people during the mid to late Edo period. From the late Edo period to the early Meiji period, intricately woven pictorial Kasuri flourished in various regions, and subsequently, from the Meiji period to the early Showa period, Kasuri became widely popular, with many regions producing Kasuri.
現代においても、絣はその美しさと独自性から多くの人々に愛されています。ファッション業界では、絣の柄を取り入れた洋服やバッグがトレンドとなり、伝統的なテキスタイルが現代のライフスタイルと融合しています。また、環境問題への意識の高まりから、手織りや天然染料を使った伝統的な絣の需要も増えていると言われています。絣の歴史を振り返ると、その美しさと織り技術が世界中で愛され、さまざまな文化や時代を彩ってきたことが分かります。テキスタイルの美と伝統を結ぶ絣の魅力は、時代を超えて輝き続けることでしょう。
Even in modern times, Kasuri is cherished by many for its beauty and uniqueness. In the fashion industry, clothing and bags with Kasuri patterns have become trendy, blending traditional textiles with contemporary lifestyles. Moreover, due to the growing environmental awareness, there is an increasing demand for traditional Kasuri woven by hand and dyed with natural pigments. Looking back at the history of Kasuri, it is evident that its beauty and weaving techniques have been cherished and adorned various cultures and eras worldwide. The allure of Kasuri, which connects textile beauty and tradition, will continue to shine across generations.
Even in modern times, Kasuri is cherished by many for its beauty and uniqueness. In the fashion industry, clothing and bags with Kasuri patterns have become trendy, blending traditional textiles with contemporary lifestyles. Moreover, due to the growing environmental awareness, there is an increasing demand for traditional Kasuri woven by hand and dyed with natural pigments. Looking back at the history of Kasuri, it is evident that its beauty and weaving techniques have been cherished and adorned various cultures and eras worldwide. The allure of Kasuri, which connects textile beauty and tradition, will continue to shine across generations.
<参考文献>
・世界の絣 - 文化学園服飾博物館文化学園
・織を学ぶ―染織を学ぶ〈2〉伝統と現代綴織の基礎から絹織物まで (美と創作シリーズ)
"World of Kasuri" - Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum "Learning Weaving, Learning Dyeing, Vol. 2: From Traditional to Modern Kasuri Weaving" (Beauty and Creativity Series)
・世界の絣 - 文化学園服飾博物館文化学園
・織を学ぶ―染織を学ぶ〈2〉伝統と現代綴織の基礎から絹織物まで (美と創作シリーズ)
"World of Kasuri" - Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum "Learning Weaving, Learning Dyeing, Vol. 2: From Traditional to Modern Kasuri Weaving" (Beauty and Creativity Series)
2023/07/26
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